(the following itinerary is compiled and reprinted in part from Exum Mountain Guides. Exum is the guide service for One Wild Challenge 5)
As we stated earlier, The Grand Teton (13,770 feet) is America's most famous mountain and one of the world's classic climbs. It offers limitless mountaineering possibilities to both aspiring and experienced mountaineers. The distance is 11 miles one way, 8 of which is on a trail (sometimes quite steep). Vertical gain is 5,000 feet to the Lower Saddle and another 2,100 feet to the summit: 7,100 feet total. Between four and six creeks are crossed en route allowing us to hydrate and carry little water.
ITINERARY
Day 1: Depart Tulsa
The team will meet at Tulsa International Airport and fly to Jackson Hole, Wyoming. We will take rental vans to the Grand Teton Climber’s Ranch. Accommodations are rustic including a public shower and wooden bunks. You will need your own sleeping pad and sleeping bag. The evening is free to explore the area and mentally prepare for the Challenge ahead.
Day 2 and 3: - Climbing School
Multi-Pitch Mountaineering Level I and II
This two-day course is geared specifically toward training for the Grand Teton and is required for all One Wild Challenge participants. You will learn both basic and intermediate skills of rock climbing. Your performance will determine what route you are qualified to climb.
• basics of efficient hiking
• basics of rock climbing: balance, body position, smearing, edging
• down climbing
• knots: figure eight follow through, figure eight on a bight, one handed bowline around waist, bowline on a bight (Get a head start and learn the knots at Alan Grogono's knot site.)
• anchoring (securing oneself to the mountainside)
• belaying (protecting partners with rope)
• walking-in-coils (moving the rope and rope team as a unit across easy terrain)
• rope management
• overview of climbing rating system
• easy four pitch climb (5.3 to 5.5)
• rappelling (descending a rock face using a rope)
• toproping (5.4 to 5.7)
• anchoring and placing protection on exposed terrain
• using belay devices
• belaying a lead climber
• mountainside rope management
• two multi-pitch climbs (5.5 to 5.8)
• 110 foot overhanging rappel
• belayed down climbing
Day 4:
Meet at Exum Headquarters at 9:30 am. Carrying only your personal food and clothing, hike up Garnet Canyon with a guide to our private hut at the Lower Saddle (11,620 feet). Though the hike is long and at times strenuous, guides set a slow and steady pace so you may enjoy the exercise and the fabulous alpine scenery. Arrive at the hut in late afternoon.
Day 5:
Leave the hut before dawn for the Exum Ridge or the Owen-Spalding Route. The Exum Ridge is reached via Wall Street, an exciting exposed ramp. The 13-pitch route then follows a pinnacled crest line up the Golden Staircase, Wind Tunnel, Double Cracks, Friction Pitch, Unsoeld's Layback, and onto the summit ridge. The Owen-Spalding Route is the line of the first ascent with classic passages and sensational exposure. Reach the summit usually by late morning, then rappel and down climb back to the Exum Hut for lunch and to collect gear. Return to Exum headquarters by early evening.
Day 6:
Return to Tulsa
Equipment Needs
For your feet, you will need a pair of lightweight non-cotton socks for the potentially hot hike to our base camps and a pair of heavier-weight non-cotton socks for warmth during the summit day. Bring an extra pair of heavy socks in your pack during rainy periods or in early season when there is snow on the approach.
For footwear, we recommend attempting to use one pair of shoes for all of your activities with Exum (excluding high-level rock climbs). This effort is made to save weight and to avoid having to change back and forth between different types of shoes. This is possible with a genre of footwear called "approach shoes," which hike and rock climb equally well. These are available for rent at Exum for $10/day. If you are not confident in your ankle strength, you may want to consider a higher and more rigid boot for these rocky approach routes.
Typically, the insoles that come with both new and rental shoes and boots are too flat and uncomfortable for a full day on the trail. Therefore, for your comfort and injury prevention, we also highly recommend investing in custom insoles, such as those made by Sole Custom Footbeds.
For your legs, wear lightweight shorts during the approach hike, conditions permitting. Carry one pair of medium weight polypropylene or capilene long underwear and one pair of single-wall synthetic or wool, durable climbing pants in your pack. For rain and wind protection, carry or wear durable Gore-Tex or coated-nylon pants. Zip sides are ideal for early season. Marmot PreCip pants are superb. During the climb, wear the long underwear and/or wool pants with the shell pants if it is cold and windy. If it is warm, wear your climbing pants with or without the long underwear. The Cloudveil Symmetry, Marmot and Black Diamond rock bottoms are all excellent synthetic climbing pants. Do not bring jeans, sweat pants, or other thick cotton garments.
For your upper body, wear a t-shirt during the approach and carry one layer of polypro or capilene, a wool or synthetic shirt, and one or two fleece sweaters. If you get cold easily, bring an extra down or fleece vest or jacket. For rain and wind protection, carry or wear durable Gore-Tex or coated nylon jacket with a hood. Marmot PreCip jackets are superb. (No rain ponchos or cotton sweatshirts!)
For your head, have a warm fleece hat and a suncap as well as sunscreen, lip balm and sunglasses. Glacier glasses with sideblinders are highly recommended, especially when there is snow on the ground. Foam earplugs are nice to have in the hut and ski poles help ease the strain of the hike.
For your hands, do not bring the rappelling gloves required for the climbing schools. Instead bring warm fleece gloves and/or optional fingerless gloves. For early season climbs, bring durable waterproof mittens with an outer shell and wrist cuff.
You will need a backpack that is in good condition and is sufficient in size to carry your extra clothes, personal items, and food. The pack should have ice axe loops for early season climbs. Exum has a limited number of small daypacks at our Lower Saddle and CMC caches for use during the summit day.
Bring one or two water bottles or a hydration system and plan to drink at least a gallon of water during the approach. We can fill our bottles/bladders in streams on the way up. We also recommend bringing some sort of electrolyte replacement drink powder, especially during especially hot weather. Iodine tables or water pumps will ensure that you do not contract water-borne illnesses. Tablets are preferred for reasons of weight and simplicity.
Bring a bowl, 12 ounce mug, and lexan spoon/fork for eating in the hut or high camps. You do not need to bring a tent, sleeping bag, pad, stove, or climbing equipment for use on the Grand Teton. Exum will provide these for you at our Lower Saddle Hut.
• "approach shoes" with sticky rubber soles. You can rent these at Exum Headquarters, Moosely Seconds in Moose (307-739-1801), or Teton Mountaineering in Jackson (307-733-3595). Please do not bring actual rock climbing shoes on these climbs unless you are going for a more technical route. Shoes should fit you comfortably because you will be wearing them all day long. The sticky rubber soles are essential.
• custom footbeds (optional) (check out Sole Custom Footbeds)
• two or three pairs of wool or synthetic socks
• long underwear bottoms (capilene, driclime or polypropylene only - NO cotton!)
• comfortable synthetic or wool pants or loose fitting synthetic running tights (When the weather is good, wear them alone. When the weather is bad or cold, wear your long underwear in addition.)
• rain pants (must be waterproof, Gortex or equivalent)
• long underwear long sleeve top (capilene, Driclime or polypropylene only - NO cotton!)
• long sleeve wool or synthetic shirt
• fleece sweater or pullover
• rain jacket (must be waterproof, Gortex or equivalent) - NO ponchos
• one wool or synthetic ski hat
• one pair of wool or fleece gloves
• one pair of rappel gloves (Cotton work gloves are fine, but leather is better.)
• 2-3 quarts of water (wide-mouth bottles or hydration systems)
• dark sun glasses, sunscreen, lip balm and a hat for sun protection
• headlamp (a small flashlight is acceptable - headlamp is recommended)
• a backpack large enough for all equipment listed and for your food.
• comfortable shorts or lightweight pants and a T-shirt for the hike to the hut or base camp (cotton is OK for this part of the trip only)
• hiking/trekking poles (optional)
• water purification tablets/iodine (preferred)
• water filter instead of iodine tablets (optional)
• electrolyte replacement drink mix
• bowl, 12 ounce mug, lexan spoon/fork
• camera and film (light weight, point and shoot model recommended) (optional)
• fleece vest (if you tend to get cold easily this is recommended) (optional)
• ear plugs (the hut at the lower saddle is sometimes noisy) (optional)
